Getting started: drafting patterns
- Diksha Priya
- Jun 6, 2022
- 3 min read
From making inkblot swatches to gradually developing hand skills and finally we are here right now- all ready to make dartless bodices. How exciting has this journey been , taking one step at a time and made it this far! Let's keep our spirits high as usual and get started with today's topic i.e pattern making
Pattern making means designing body patterns from templates, from which fabrics are sewn to make garments. It is a bridge between the designing and production process.
It is also a crucial process and a fundamental one as it connects various components of the garment. Lots of patience, practice and precision is required to make error free and accurate patterns.
This post is divided into 2 sections:
Pattern making tools
sewing a dartless bodice
1 | Pattern making tools
To draft patterns, there are various tools which are used. Let us take a look at these tools to gain better understanding:
Ruler
Most people own a 30cm ruler and getting a clear ruler makes it much easier as one can easily mark the measurements on the fabric.
L scale
The l scale is one of the most basic pattern making tools and they help create accurate 90 degree angles.
French curve
French curves help in drawing smoother lines or curves and helps in pattern adjustments.Traditionally, a pattern has curved lines along the neckline, armholes or following the hip curve. The French curve is very useful because it has many different degrees of curve.
Hip curve
To make garments which are well fitted at the hipline , the hip curve is used. Since it is a curve, anywhere a slight curve adjustment is needed this tool can be used.
Grading scale
This comes to use especially when one sells garments in different sizes. It is used to transform a pattern from one size to another. Usually one base size is made and all the other sizes are graded from the base size.
Tracing wheel
This tool is essentials for tracing patterns and transferring pattern markings onto fabric.
The spiked tracing wheels can most commonly be found.
Pattern paper
This is a necessary tool and helps with drafting the pattern. It is not essential for pattern paper to be see through but it's better as one can see what they are cutting through and what they are tracing.
2| Sewing a dartless bodice
Now hopping on to the main assignment we were given. We were expected to sew a dartless bodice but we did not have to draft our own pattern at this stage. We were asked to trace an already cut out pattern as pattern making requires higher technical skills and understanding. Dartless bodices are also loose fit which makes it perfect for beginners.
The process
Final bodice
It was an incredible experience to trace and cut out the fabrics and then sew it on the machine. It was super exciting and not going to lie quite confusing too. Seeing the bodice come together from just being a chopped up fabric to a finished bodice , which can be worn is a thrilling experience. Just sitting by the machine and seeing it go *Skkrrrrrrrr* and in seconds the fabric pieces are sewed! (Also I should admit, I felt cool while sewing using the machine)
The bodice can also be handsewn and finished up which is another interesting part about it. So just a pattern and you can get started by tracing and making your bodices. With more practice we can proceed to make sleeves and even well fit garments. One last thing before we end the post, Don't lose your curiosity, keep practicing and learning and the mistakes we make along the way are all part of learning. As always keep following the blog for more peeks into my fashion classes. Until then,
Diksha
(a.k.a the fashion student you live through vicariously:))
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